St Georges’ Day marks the official opening of the asparagus season, and the oncoming
glut of British produce. Following last year’s late harvest, this year’s
crop is ready to go, and fresh spears can be found now at farm shops, farmers’ markets
and even on pick-your-own farms across the country.
The excitement that asparagus elicits from chefs and foodies is due partly to its subtle,
grassy flavour; refreshing after months of roots and cabbages, and also to its relatively
short season. Traditionally British asparagus is available for about six weeks at its
best and most affordable. Prices vary - farm shops are currently charging £6 - £9.99
per kilo (or about £2.50 - £3 a bunch). If the warm weather continues, a
bumper crop means prices tend to drop as the season progresses, with many places offering
promotions. For the best deals, the freshest spears, and minimal packaging, try pick-your-own
farms, currently charging approximately £6 per kilo – much cheaper than the
supermarkets.
Buy fresh. There is no snobbery in the fact that freshly picked asparagus actually tastes
better as the sugars have less time to convert to starch, resulting in sweeter and more
digestible spears. At certified farmers’ markets, you can buy straight from the
producer, and many farm shops sell their own or locally sourced ‘buds o’gras’.
For a nation with a growing appetite for growing its own vegetables, asparagus is one
of the most labour intensive – it takes three years waiting before you get a first
harvest – so buying from local farmers gives you value for money and time with
the quality of homegrown.
How you eat asparagus depends on the size and age of the spears; slender, early ‘sprue’ asparagus
is good steamed or grilled lightly for no longer that two minutes before drizzling with
beurre blanc, hollandaise or lemon and parmesan. Once the glut begins, try soups, add
lightly cooked to salads and stir-fries or combine with other spring vegetables cooked
in a little white wine and butter as an accompaniment to lamb or pork.
The vale of Evesham in Worcestershire is the traditional home of asparagus and its annual
festival which runs for 23 April – 21 June, but the vegetable can be found across
England, Wales, and up into Scotland (customers further north will have to wait until
early May to buy local). To find farm shops, farmers’ markets or pick-your-owns
in your area, visit www.farma.org.uk. For online deliveries, try www.abbeyparksasparagus.co.uk
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